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Journey to Assam: An Immersion into the Heart of Untouched India
"A journey to Assam is an immersion into a different face of India — both vibrant and serene — where lush jungles, winding rivers, and a well-preserved heritage await.
Assam, a Hidden Gem in the Heart of Northeast India
Assam... what can I say about this region? The moment I set foot on Assamese soil, it felt like I had entered a different country. Far from the hustle and bustle of Delhi, there was no suffocating pollution here — only fresh air and lush landscapes. I never imagined just how different this region could be from the rest of India, with its rolling hills, tranquil rivers, and distinct culture. Every moment of this journey through Assam brought me closer to a lesser-known facet of the subcontinent.
A warm embrace upon arrival
From the moment we arrived, we were greeted by Assamese dancers and offered a “Gamosa”, a traditional handwoven cloth given as a gesture of welcome. This first encounter with the local culture immediately set the tone: Assam is a region rich in tradition and hospitality.
What struck me the most were the facial features of the people — more reminiscent of Nepalese and Tibetan faces than those of North Indians. Their genuine smiles and eagerness to share their culture made me feel instantly at ease. The “Gamosa,” often hand-embroidered, is a symbol of respect and honor. It is given during ceremonies, official visits, and even sporting events.
We were also offered a glass of warm, lightly spiced tea — a perfect introduction to the beverage that defines Assam’s identity.
Journey to Kaziranga and the Land of Tea Gardens
We took the road to Kaziranga, a journey of about nine hours. Our guide, Palavi, was from the region. She spoke English, Assamese, Hindi, and a bit of Nepali. From the start, she immersed us in the local atmosphere with traditional Assamese music. Even before exploring the region, I already felt connected to it.
On the way, we passed through vast tea plantations. Assam is world-renowned for its tea, and this was one of the things I absolutely wanted to see in India. As a big tea lover, it was a dream come true to see these fields with my own eyes. In these plantations, it is mainly women who work, picking the precious leaves under the scorching sun. Their children played nearby, finding joy in whatever they could. Some women worked with their babies strapped to their backs. During the journey, I noticed the colorful houses of all kinds. They were spacious and usually painted in blue, white, or pink. Each house had a small gate leading to a courtyard, and what I particularly loved were the rooftop terraces. The gates, often in solid colors, were decorated with beautiful golden patterns that gave them an elegant touch. Some houses, built of wood and raised on stilts, had walls made of woven bamboo, adding to their authentic charm. From time to time, I could catch glimpses of small churches and temples under construction.
Discovering the Secrets of the Hathikhuli Tea Factory
After a hearty breakfast at the hotel, we set off for Hathikhuli, a tea factory located just 20 minutes from Kaziranga. Upon arrival, we immersed ourselves in the fascinating world of Assam tea production. It all began with the plucking of young tea shoots, carefully harvested by hand. We followed the leaves as they were withered to remove moisture, then passed through a machine that breaks, tears, and rolls them, creating the small pellets typical of the CTC process. This method gives the tea its strength and intense flavors. We then observed the fermentation of the leaves, where oxidation develops the unique flavors of the tea. Finally, after meticulous drying, the tea is sorted and graded based on its quality. I had the opportunity to purchase a packet of this Assam tea, which was far richer in flavor than anything found in supermarkets — a perfect souvenir of this immersive experience at the heart of tea tradition.
A First Cultural Encounter
Our first stop was the Charaideo Moidam, where the tomb of an ancient Ahom king rests. The site was located in a small village, where we had the opportunity to chat with the locals dressed in traditional attire. The women wore the Mekhela Chador, a red and white ensemble woven from Muga silk, a precious and unique material from Assam. The golden sheen of the Mekhela sparkled under the sun, adding a touch of magic to this encounter.
As we spoke with them, we learned about the significance of their rituals and traditions, which remain deeply ingrained in their daily lives. It reminded me how some cultures manage to preserve their heritage, while in France, I sometimes feel like everything is being lost.
Bihu Dance: A Deep Dive into Assamese Culture
We then continued our journey to the village of Joysagar, where a large buffet awaited us, offering a delightful taste of the local cuisine. We had the chance to try a pinkish drink made from bogori, an Indian jujube with a slightly bitter and surprising taste. For the main course, we enjoyed chapati, the traditional flatbread that accompanies every meal, much like bread does in France. It was served with dal (lentils), bhat (rice), paneer (Indian fresh cheese), and a spicy, tangy sauce. For dessert, we tasted laddu, small sweet balls made from coconut, as well as Til Pitha, rice pancakes stuffed with jaggery (unrefined cane sugar) and sesame seeds — a specialty of the Bihu festival in Assam. The latter, though slightly firm, offered a sweet and comforting flavor.
But what truly stood out during this stop was the traditional Bihu dance. The dancers, accompanied by the Dholiya, musicians playing the dhol (a traditional drum), put on an energetic and captivating performance. The Bihu dance is fascinating. It celebrates the Assamese New Year and is inspired by agricultural movements, full of rhythm and joy. It tells the story of the seasons, harvest, and renewal. After the performance, we were even invited to try a few steps ourselves. It’s not as easy as it looks!
Reaching Kaziranga and Uncovering the Charm of the Hotel
As night fell, we finally arrived at our hotel in Kaziranga. I was staying at the Borgos Resort, a beautiful place nestled in the heart of nature. Before even reaching the reception, we walked down a path lined with lush greenery, making it feel like we were deep in the jungle. The interior was impressive, with a massive elephant sculpture standing at the entrance. The hotel was so large that it was easy to get lost. My room was spacious, featuring a double bed, a balcony overlooking the forest, and a huge bathroom. One amusing detail: you had to flip a specific switch and wait 30 minutes to get hot water. Between the many switches for the lights, fan, and electrical outlets, it took a little time to get used to!
Safari in Kaziranga
The next morning, we woke up at dawn, eager to embark on a safari in Assam, in Kaziranga National Park, the only park in the region offering such an experience. On board our jeeps, accompanied by armed soldiers and an experienced guide, we set off with the hope of spotting a tiger, although we had been warned that these majestic creatures were particularly difficult to observe.
For over an hour and a half, we wandered through the park, immersed in landscapes of captivating beauty. Each moment brought us closer to the wild, where we were fortunate enough to observe majestic rhinos, a few magnificent elephants, and even tiger footprints left on tree trunks. These encounters with wildlife, in their natural habitat, had a serene, almost primal power. We felt a deep admiration for these creatures, and I became fully aware of the rarity of this unique moment. Motionless and indifferent to our presence, they simply enjoyed their day, some eating their meal, others basking in the first rays of the already brilliant sun. It was a moment suspended in time, a gift from nature.
Despite the noise of the jeeps, a unique serenity reigned in this wild place, as if frozen in time. Kaziranga National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is famous for its population of one-horned rhinoceroses, but it also offers an incredible diversity of wildlife, making every moment spent here an unforgettable experience.
Now it’s your turn to share your experience in a remote region of India by getting in touch with one of our experts:
https://www.shantitravel.com/fr/voyage-inde-du-nord
